Another thing worth mentioning is that I had to disconnect the turn signal buzzer in order for the turn signals to blink correctly. With it still connected, both the front and rear lights would only partially blink. I'll have to decipher the schematic later to find out why that's the case.
|
Old on the left, new on the right. |
|
Front marker and tail light. |
The other noticeable improvement came about with the 45-LED tower 1157 bulb I chose for the tail light. This bulb is at least as bright as the stock 1157 when on low, power, but much brighter when you apply the brakes.
The only downside is the stock, clear 1157 is intended to provide light for the license plate through a clear portion of the tail light lens. With LEDs, you want to match the color of the lens when purchasing them, otherwise you will be wasting light output when passing through the lens.
So, without changing anything, the license plate is now lit with red light, which violates PA DOT license plate lighting requirements. I intend to fix that with a pair of white LED bolts and some foil tape over the clear portion of the tail light lens.
|
Tail light. |
|
Brake light. |
|
Rear turn signal. |
All in all, it cost about $100 to replace all of the lights with LEDs. This should result in significant power savings and less strain on the charging system, which still needs some adjustment.
Next I will be replacing the stock sealed-beam 45W headlight with a Bosch H4 conversion reflector and a 55W/60W modern-day halogen bulb and some direct wiring from the battery to minimize losses. Between the LED upgrade, some wiring upgrades for the headlight, and a properly adjusted charging regulator, I should have much better lighting than stock and no problem keeping the battery charged, while still retaining that stock factory look.
Edit (Apr 29, 2016):
Here is a quick analysis of the current/power draw before and after, and some conclusions.
Unfortunately, I never quantified the current draw before and after by measuring.
But, we can estimate it thusly:
Before (worst-case, all lights on):
- 9x BA9s indicator lamp, 0.24A = 2.16A
- 3x 1157 dual filament (brake, rear running light, front marker, front turn), 3*(2.10A + 0.59A) = 8.07A
- 2x 1156 single filament (rear turn) = 2.1A = 4.2A
Total before with all lights on:
14.43A = 61W @12V
After (worst-case, all lights on):
- 1x 1 LED BA9S-R-120-12V (oil) 0.019A
- 1x 1 LED BA9S-G-120-12V (neutral) 0.018A
- 1x 1 LED BA9S-B-120-12V (high beam) 0.018A
- 2x 1 LED BA9S-A-120-12V (turn signal indicators) 0.021A = 0.042A
- 4x 4 LED BA9S-G4-90-12V (gauge illumination) 0.029A = 0.116A
- 1x Dual Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower 1157-R45-T (brake) 0.150A
- 2x Dual Intensity 2 Watt Adjustable Right Angle 1157-A2W-ARA (front turn/marker) 0.165A = 0.330A
- 2x Single Intensity 2 Watt Adjustable Right Angle 1156-A2W-ARA: (rear turn) 0.165A = 0.330A
Total after with all lights on:
0.858A = 10.296W @12V
Obviously there are no states in which all lights are illuminated, so the above figures are truly worst-case. It's obvious to me that the biggest savings are realized when replacing the front marker lights, tail light, and gauge lights, as they're always on. If we look at replacing just those, we go from 9.03A to 0.431A. The rest of the lights are worth replacing anyway, especially the idiot lights as the LED equivalents tend to be much brighter than their incandescent counterparts.